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Introducing Bonsai How to build Bonsai trees |
| Sunday, July 19, 2009 |
Nature or natural resources are the only method to grow Bonsai. There is no such thing as replica Bonsai, or model trees. Still, you can grow your own Bonsai tree that will make nature come alive.
Komono is one of the Bonsai breeds. Komono has small leaves with citrus and, Nacro orange and grows around seven inches.
How to judge Bonsai
The design is important. Bonsai trees must be carefully pruned. The tree should not have tattered stubs that are untidy or resting on the tree in a discomfited position. The wiring should be maintained also. The wires should not grind into the branches, and should be neat and placed well around the branches. Bonsai trees often sit in its pot at a good stance, or angle. The tree is to sit up high, yet not so high that it interrupts the growth. In addition, Bonsai should sit low, yet not low enough that it would disturb growth. The tree is best seated at an angle, and not directly in the center of the pot.
How to consider Bonsai Roots:
The roots of Bonsai trees are important. The roots starts the growth, which these roots should clutch the earth, or soil decisively. Bonsai requires a degree of organization, which the tree roots should be as even as possible.
How to consider the trunk:
The trunk of Bonsai should be well formed. The trunk should also be tapered correctly as outlined by nature’s effects. In short, the trunk should have its natural older effects.
How to consider branches:
The position and angle of Bonsai branches should have respectable equilibrium. The branches should also have vacant areas to provide room for growth. The branches should have a surplus of growth as well.
How to maintain scale
Flowers, leaves, needles, and fruits should rest on the tree so that it looks natural. If the tree is slanting too far to the right, or left, you need to adjust your Bonsai.
Health:
The health of your Bonsai tree is based on the soils surface, or the groundcovers. If moss is growing around the cover of your groundcover, if thin or feeble weeds grow freely, or if debris is around the soil, you are not keeping up your Bonsai tree well. Bonsai trees should have appealing effects that resemble the Bonsais’ that grow in nature. Bonsai also requires proper accessories and containing so that it can grow well. Moreover, Bonsai trees require a clean environment. At all times, you should clean the tree as needed and remove dust, cobwebs, mineral deposits, smudges, dead leaves, etc.
Cleaning your tree regularly will help it to grow productively.
How to judge size:
The size falls back to Komono, Chumono, Keshitsubu, Mame, and Onomo. Keshitsubu is a pea size Bonsai, which grows up to 7.6 metric units of length, or 3 inches. This tree is rare, and is much more difficult to rise than the Chumono, Mame, Onomo, or other breeds. Mame grows up to 15 metric units of length or 6 inches. The smaller tree is around 3 inches, which Mame is the baby Bonsai. Komono grows up to 20 metric units in length, or 9 inches. The smaller tree is around 6 inches. Chumono grows up to 91 metric units, or 36 inches with the smallest being 18 inches. Onomo grows up to 36 inches as well. The last size is the Katade Mochi. The tree grows up to 46 metric units in length, which is around 18 inches. The smaller tree is around 9 inches.
Chumono and Onomo is the largest Bonsai tree, which would take two or four man strength to lift the trees. |
posted by neptunus @ 10:21 PM  |
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How to buy Bonsai |
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In order to buy bonsai trees first you must understand the different names. Bonsai has a list of names, too many to mention, yet having a basic knowledge can help you decide on the type of tree suited for you. Growing bonsai trees is similar to taking care of an infant child, in that you have to pay attention, follow directions, and continue care.
How to relate to bonsai names:
Bonsai is scientifically named as Elea-gnus augusti. The tree names were confused until the organisms two-section name were biologically compared to Latin and/or Latinized definitions that formed the scientific name bonsai and its variants, such as the cascade. The plants were then classified the second of the Genus species, or the Genus plants. The expressions came from mathematical terms.
Sheffelera and Acer Buergerianum is a type of bonsai tree, yet Acer is also known as trident maple to India and France. Acer has opposing leaves, three rounded parts, which point toward the front of the tree. Acer grows dark green leaves, which shines and the nostril is shallow. Acer also has elongated round leaves that do not divide to the midrib. The buds overlaps and points while expanding its structure to puberty. When the tree is at puberty stage, it has gray to brown stems, which pores the outer layers of the woody stems. Flowers grow during spring, which its coloration is often green to yellow. The trees fruit splits into single-seeds when ripe, and divides individually into seeded sections. Once the fruits are ripe, dark brown to orange, peels brighten its removed contents. Acer is minute size or medium when it begins growth and the branches often sit low as it grows a collection of stems.
Pyracantha is a thorny shrub tree, called fire thorn. The United Kingdom based tree has thorny evergreen shrubs, which grows brilliant orange and red fruits. The tree is also cultivated in Asia.
Kochia has a list of names, yet the tall weedy tree grows annually and comes from the goosefoot family. The tree is grown in native lands, Europe, and naturally grown in North America. The tree has high branches with erected stems, inconspicuous flowers, and narrow leaves. The Latin name is Kochia Scoparia.
To help you decide which bonsai to purchase, we can view a list of Latin names. If you want short plants, you would purchase the Abbreviatus. Abbreviatus is the artistic growth of miniature trees, which form shrubs through rigorous pruning of its branches and root.
If you are searching for elongated tapered points, search through the line of Accuminatus trees. The leaves taper off the tree and have sharp points.
Bonsai that presses together and against the other is known as the Adpressus group. The catalpa is an example of the Adpressus, which the tree has heart-shape leaves and come from Asian and North American countries. The leaves grow in clusters, which are creamy flowers shaped like bells and have elongated thin pods.
If you want a tree where the branches are going up the trunk, check out the line of Adscendens. Aerius means air or air-roots. Affinis is a lasting bonsai tree. Affinis is the group of Gracilis, which include Podocarpus Affinis, glaucus, lophatus, pilgeri, rotundus, and a selection of plants that come from New Guinea and South Asia, such as the Macrostachyus group.
Africanus is one of bonsai’s finest, which the tree comes from Africa. The winged trees include the Alatus group. The woody winged tree may have ridges, which extend lengthways. The ridges continue to the stems and bushes. It is a member of the Genus and known as Euonymus Alatus. The Euonymus group is trees and/or shrubs, which have decorated foliage. The northern temperate trees are cultivated for its décor evergreen foliage, clusters of orange and red fruits, etc. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:20 PM |
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How to Treat Diseased Bonsai White Pines |
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Before you can treat ill or pest damaged White Pines you must first detect the cause. For instance, there are many types of pests and disease to watch out for, such as the pine weevils, bark beetles, pine chafers, bee hawk moth, pine hawk moth, pine sawfly, bombyx, or caterpillar, galerucid beetle or chysomelid and the leaf beetle. Disease can include red-band, honey fungus, rust, pine leaf cast, etc.
How to detect pest damage:
All sorts of little bugs roam outdoors and many are attracting to aromatic plants and trees. The bugs will feed and nest on plants and trees, which is their role in nature. The problem is the pests over do them selves? This brings in humans, which it is our role to minimize or eliminate bug damage and decay. When we think of caterpillars often, we consider harmless creatures that grow as beautiful butterflies. The facts however is that these harmless creatures rarely nest or damage Scot pine, yet it will damage other plants. Caterpillars are sometimes called moth larvae, which these pests will feed on plant tissue and weaken the tree. Caterpillars can also cause decaying. The caterpillars are grouped, i.e. you have the bombycoid moths or sponge caterpillars, and the leaf rollers. In addition, you must consider the leaf miners, goat moth, leopard moth, geometer moth, small ermine moth, and so on.
The bombycoid often causes damage to plants and trees. You will notice the damage by spotting silky threads between needles or leaves. Look in the foliage also to spot spongy-like nests. If you notice, damage caused from caterpillars immediately use contact insecticides to eliminate or minimize the problem. Otherwise, the caterpillars will continue feasting on the leaves and needles until the plant is destroyed.
The leaf rollers will feed on buds, flowers, leaves, and youthful shoots. You will notice damage, such as silk threads that wrap about the leaves. The wraps resemble a cigar. Caterpillars will often feed at night. To stop damage and or decaying spray the plant in the spring, spraying it with parathion-based insecticide. Parathion is colorless toxic oil, which is often highly concentrated. The insecticide will kill any bugs crawling or nesting in your plants.
Leaf miners can be treated with organophosphate insecticide. You will notice symptoms or signs of leaf miners by spotting tunnels around the tissue. Holes will appear in the leaves. If you notice dark specks around the cavity, or if carbohydrate production, which uses light and chlorophyll, i.e. photosynthesis interruptions appear, you will need to spray your plant. If the photosynthesis is interrupted and treatment is not available, thus the process of producing basic carbohydrates from carbon dioxide, hydrogen, etc, is minimized which energy will cease and result to fatality.
Pine weevils often nest in the roots of plants and trees. If you notice chewed areas at the chief branches and/or collar of your plant, then you will need to spray the growth with pesticide. Spray the tree or plant at the start of April and at the last day of March. You can cut, remove, and destroy any sections of your bonsai that is infested. If the trees are young, use plant oils to minimize infestation.
If the needles appeared chewed and the branches have undesired shape, likely your bonsai has been infested with galerucid beetles, leaf beetles, or chysomelid. If the plant slows growth and shows, the latter signs spray your bonsai with insecticides.
If the branches and leaves appear chewed or distorted you will need to spray insecticide on your plants, since it has likely been attacked by the pine chafers. The bonsai will show signs, such as slow growth if the pine chafers have attacked your plant. NOTE: Chafers are large flying scarab beetles. The beetles move slowly. Sometimes the beetles are called the cockchafer. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:20 PM |
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How to Train Spruce Picea |
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Picea Spruce derived from the family of Pinaceae. At one time, the trees were listed under pine, yet new discoveries lead plant growers to see this specimen as the Genus. The Latin Genus is dubbed resin, pitch, or Pix resin. The tree grows in mountain regions, and throughout the northern areas, producing around fifty specimens to name. The conifer has crowns that consistently point and branches that slope, sagging into sub-branches. The specimens include white spruce, Norway spruce, black spruce, oriental spruce, Caucasian spruce, Hondo spruce, jezo spruce, and so on.
Spruce trees are evergreens and members of the pine trees. The trees are shaped like pyramids and have short needles, cones that droop, and soft light colored wood. When the tree is trained as the bonsai, it presents an amazing grove-like texture. In fact, if you want a forest grove inside your home or in your garden the Picea Spruce is your choice.
Spruce is produced from seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting, etc. The plants require detailed care. To grow the plants from seeds you will need the cones. Select your cones in September and up until January. (Excluding the Picea Glauca cones, which you should pick in August and/or September) The cones must dry before you can start propagation.
How to seed:
Once you collect and dry the cones, you will notice scales. At the edges of these scales are seeds. Extract the seeds as late as feasible and allow the seeds to sit in moist sand for at least ten days. Next, you can start germination. Minium should be sprinkled over the seeds to provide them a preventive solution for growth. In April, you can start propagation once the seeds show signs of germinating. If possible, grow the seeds beneath glass and in a moist and shaded environment. After a couple of weeks, you are ready to train your bonsai.
How to care for bonsai:
Once you choose your method of propagation, you will need to consider care. Care includes sunlight, temperature, ventilation, pruning, soil, pot, cleaning, wires, water, feed, and sprays.
This particular plant is subject to root eelworms, large pine weevils, red spider mites, bark beetles, wood wasps, longhorn beetles, bee hawk moths, tortrix or caterpillars, sawflies, aphids, pine gall louse, and disease.
To protect your plant you will need to spray the trees with mist-sprays. The foliage requires moisture. The plants are moody, i.e. the plants like shady and sunny environments. Adapt with your plant climatic need to grow a healthy bonsai. The plants prefer cool environments however, yet you should protect the species from frost.
How to ventilate:
Do not sweat, since all species of this breed enjoy all types of wind?
How to pot:
The roots of this species is not deep, therefore you can pot the plant in a shallow container.
How to re-pot:
Picea Glauca, orientalis, and the group of jezoensis grow slowly. Abies also grow slow, yet if the altitude is lower, the plant will speed up growth. These particular specimens should be planted in a larger pot. You can re-pot the plant three to five year’s intervals.
How to prune:
Pruning is essential to promote healthy bonsai. To start pruning wait until April and pinch back the shoots. The new shoots grow at the branch sides each year. DO NOT cut the needles, yet prune the leaves. Spring is the best time to prune the branches. The hard backs should be cut; leaving a few bunches, or tufts behind.
How to wire:
At the beginning of winter or even at the last month of fall you can wire the plants to train as bonsai. Use copper wiring and get rid of it in ten months. You can remove the wire earlier if necessary. To achieve your desired bonsai shape, continue the wiring process annually.
How to water:
Drain the soil. The plant requires profuse water, yet you must allow the plant to dry. Moist soil is ideal for spruce, yet at no time should you saturate or waterlog the soil.
How to soil:
You want a mixture of loam, course sand, and leaf mould; use a 1/3 of each.
How to spray:
The foliage should have moisture at all times. Spray the spruces in spring and throughout summer.
How to feed:
Fertilizers should be slow-processing macrobiotic solutions. Fertilize the plants in spring and fall. The last days in the fall, you want to increase feed. Avoid feeding the plants in July and up until August. If the bonsai has been re-potted, or sickly, DO not feed the plants from July to August. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:19 PM |
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How to Train Matured Bonsai |
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Matured bonsai are easier to train in some instances. As for style however, you will not have the control you would have if you grew herbs and trained them as bonsai. If you plan to train matured bonsai, it is wise to start big.
How to choose matured bonsai:
Plants in 1-gallon stocks or 2-gallon stock are ideal if the plants have deep, well-structured trunks. The branches should have intense architecture. The larger plants when trimmed will form stunning bonsai trees.
How to find large, matured bonsai:
You can purchase herbs at nurseries or garden centers. Online you will find a wide selection of companies selling large bonsai, however if you are new to raising bonsai your best bet is to visit stores that sell larger plants. Nurseries often sell large, matured bonsai. You can visit the stores to learn more about plants, herbs, bonsai, etc. The notion is to become acquainted with the plants before you purchase them. Of course, you can have the large, matured plants shipped online, yet what you get may not be what you want. After visiting several nurseries however, you can order online if you choose, since you will have an ideal what you will receive. The older bonsai is the choice for many growers, therefore when you visit the nurseries; learn more about the aged bonsai.
TIP: Check out the aged line of Rosemary, Santolina, and Lavenders.
In addition, you can find older plants in gardens, which could be trained as bonsai. You want to search for herbs above one year. The ideal plants to train as the bonsai are the Geraniums and rosemary family.
How to choose bonsai:
When you find a group of large, matured bonsai, you want to search through the healthy selection. The plants should have shapely and stunning posture with appealing branches. The best texture however the plants that have been trimmed frequently are. The plants trimmed often and used as store plants is easiest to grow or train as bonsai. Look for the plants with pleasant shapes.
When choosing herbs to train as bonsai make sure that, you understand the needs of the plants. Some plants will die during transplant, since it causes shock. Other plants may not suffer from transplant shock. Learn more about the plant to avoid shock. Transplant shock comes from moving the plant from field to pot, etc.
Gardens Tip:
If you haven’t grown a garden already, you may ask a family member or friend who has a garden if you can search for potential bonsai candidates. Work out a deal with your relative or friend.
Bonsai is the art of miniature growing trees. The garden trees grow miniaturized forms of shrubs and trees and requires rigorous pruning. The roots and branches require vigilant attention, such as pruning to survive. Bonsai is grown, which special bonsai techniques are employed to promote growth. If you are new to raising bonsai, you may want to start with the easier herbs, seeds, cuttings, etc, to train as bonsai.
Geraniums are one of the easiest to grow, yet you will need to learn more about raising the specimen to produce bonsai, since this group has a few minor drawbacks. The rosemary is commonly grown as bonsai, which you may find this specimen one of the easier to train as bonsai. Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen tree or shrub, which emerges from the South European group of the mint family and is grown for its fragrance and gray to green needle-shaped leaves. Rosemary is cultivated for its flavor, which is used in cooking. Rosemary is also grown and extracted to use as perfume. The Latin name is Rosmarinus Officinalis. Check out the line of sage, basil, parsley, thymes, and aromatic plants to learn more. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:19 PM |
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How to Train Flowering Quince Bonsai |
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Chaenomeles or the Flowering Quince is a delightful plant to train as the bonsai, especially for those who enjoy flowers. Quince is a member of the Rosaceae family, and is born in native regions, Japan, etc. The shrubs produce deciduous leaves, which have strikingly beautiful springtime blooms. The blooms are surrounded by desirous, yellow fruits. The branches twist and are thorny. As they say, “Every Rose has its thorn.” You cannot have beauty without having a little danger. Therefore, if you choose this plant, watch your fingers.
The flowering quince includes the Japonica (Chaenomeles lagenaria), which has spiky twisted shrubs that are around six ½-feet tall when matured. The shrubs are shimmering green with oval shaped hairless leaves that form serrated edge. The tree starts to develop flowers around March. The flowers are dark red, whitish-pink, pink, etc. The fruits that grow in October are bitter, scented yellow.
Maul Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles Japonica) has spiky bushes that grow up to three ¼ feet tall. The tree often develop patterns, such as spreading habits, which are tightly joined. The leaves are smooth, oval, green, and grows brilliantly red flowers. The flowers start its growth in March and continues to grow fruits in October. The spherical, yellow-green fruits have a touch of red contrasts. You cannot eat the fruits, yet you can enjoy the aroma.
Chinese Quince (Chaenomeles Sinensis) is a nice-looking flowering quince when grow outdoors can reach up to 40-feet tall. Training bonsai species requires careful detailing to prevent overgrowth, especially indoors. The spiky branches extend from flaking bark. The serrated leaves are long with pointed edges. In the spring, the leaves are downy fresh, yet in the fall, the leaves turn to scarlet. In May, the flowers are white or Salmon pink. In October the fruits start to develop, which they turn shades of dark yellow.
Propagation starts with seeds, cuttings, or layering. To seed you will need to crush the ripen fruits. The seeds should be cleaned, and stratified. You can start sowing the seeds in March, which the seeds will swiftly germinate.
June and July is the best time to sow cuttings, as well as layering. You can also layer in May.
How to care for your Flowering Quince Bonsai:
Now that you have sowed your seeds, it is time to reap what you sow. To, reap good results you want to expose the plants to south sunlight. You can place the plants in semi-shaded areas during summer months.
How to ventilate:
The plants need shield from the winds. Still, you need to place the plants in quality-airy climates.
How to pot:
You want to pot the species in a shallow pot, or medium deep container. Ash colors are appealing with the bonsai flowering quince.
How to clean:
Once the flowers ripen, remove some of the fruit.
How to re-pot:
When you cut the plants back annually, it slows growth. Therefore, when re-potting use a larger pot every couple of years.
Choosing soil:
Use a mixture of 1/3 loam, course sand, and leaf mould. Use soil with minimal lime and moderate nutrition’s.
How to prune:
Sub-branches should be pruned when late shoots start to develop. New shoots that meet 2-eyes is a great time to prune also. June is the time to prune the older branches. Cut the side branches also. The tree should be pruned back hard, and undesired shoots should be removed.
How to wire:
Spring and summer is the time to wire your plant and start training your bonsai. The wire should be removed in four months. To shape your bonsai, continue the procedure annually. Next, water, feed, and spray your plants as needed. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:18 PM |
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How to Train False Cypress Bonsai |
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The False Cypress bonsai is often created from the family of Chamaecyparis obtusa. This family is kin to the group of Cupressaceae. The amazing False Cypress grows up to 115-feet tall in nature, yet you can train a miniature-sized bonsai from its roots.
Once you seed, plant cuttings, graft, or plant layers you will need to learn how to care for your new False Cypress bonsai. Care requires sun exposure, adequate climatic conditions, ventilation, potting, cleaning, wiring, pruning, growth, re-potting, soil, water, sprays, and feeding. Sprays will protect your trained False Cypress from pests and disease.
Sunlight exposure:
Your new False Cypress requires dense shade. The Cypress bonsai will not do well in fully lighted environments. In hot weather the plant will parch, therefore provide shade so that you plant will survive training.
How to ventilate:
False Cypress can withstand humid winds, but will show unhealthy symptoms when the plant is touched by dry winds.
The plant prefers temperatures as outlined, but first we must consider the specimen before adjusting the climatic, tolerate level. For example, the Chamaecyparis group of obtusa cannot tolerate colder climates. The plant will withstand weather influenced by the sea however, i.e. maritime conditions. The Chamaecyparis lawsoniana groups can stand colder conditions however. The False Cypress specimens will grow well in climatic environments suitable for their growth. The plants grow slow, yet when the Cypress ages it will present to you a steady regal bonsai.
How to pot:
You want a pot that provides adequate drainage. It depends on how you intend to shape your bonsai as to the depth of the pot. The deep pots are ideal however. You can choose any style to grow your plant, including the hexagonal, oval, etc.
How to clean:
In the fall, you want to get rid of any damaged wood, foliage, etc. To prevent pests and disease from claiming your False Cypress bonsai clean the soil often.
How to re-pot:
To re-pot your bonsai wait until three or five years. Re-pot the Cypress in March and April. The plants should be pruned between each month. Prune 1/3 of the plant and take one-half hairs from the roots. The pot should provide adequate drainage and have the depth desired for the False Cypress.
How to soil:
Soil should include 1/3 of loam, leaf mould, and course sand. The soil should be deep to provide ample space. The False Cypress prefers ample light and coolness.
How to prune:
To prune your False Cypress you will need shears, thumb, and an index finger. Use the fingers to pinch the tips of the shoots out. The process is done during the season of growth. The process continues a couple times after. The needles should be left alone, yet you will need to prune the branches at the side. You can move bunches, or the tuft to avoid over-growth. The foliage should be removed about one-third and larger, bulky branches can be cut with clippers.
How to wire:
To train your False Cypress as a bonsai you will need to wire until you reach the desired form. The wiring should start in fall and removed around nine to ten months later. Do not leave the wire on longer. You can re-wire the bark annually.
How to spray:
To protect your False Cypress bonsai from pests and disease spray the plants frequently in the summer. Use mist-sprays.
How to feed:
The plant should be feed in the spring and fall. At the end of fall, you want to increase feed. Use long-winded, macrobiotic acting fertilizers and feed monthly. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:18 PM |
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How to Train Chamaecyparis Bonsai |
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The false cypress is the family of Chamaecyparis. The plants are grown from seeds, cuttings, layers, or grafts. The Cupressaceae family arrived from native regions, Northern American climates, Taiwan, Japan, Europe, etc. The plants are unique and grow in groves. The Cupressaceae will not live as long as the Chamaecyparis group. This group can live up to “350 years.” The Cupressaceae family will live 100 years or longer. When the plants are grown in nature and not trained as bonsai, the plants can extend up to 100-feet tall. The trees have fan-like branches, which are flat. The tree has curved leaders. The cones are globular and have terminal points near the middle region.
Bonsai is often trained from the Chamaecyparis obtusa group. The trees develop rock-hard white wood, and the bark will open and thicken as it matures. Chamaecyparis obtusa grows a fine bonsai with flat, shimmering branches. The foliage is often brilliantly shaded green, which white rows run the length of the base. The tree tapers into a pointed outline, and produces pea-sized cones. When grown in wildlife habitats the tree can grow up to 115-feet tall.
How to start propagation:
To start propagation you will need to consider seeds, cuttings, grafts, or layering. It is your choice. Ultimately, you can purchase the specimen in nurseries or garden centers and continue training the developed plant into the beautiful bonsai cypress. Regardless of your choice however, you will need to learn care techniques to continue training and helping your bonsai to grow healthy. Care often includes adequate sunlight, ventilation, correct temperature, potting, cleaning, wiring, soil, growth, re-potting, wiring, water, feeding, spray, etc. Ultimately, you must consider preventive tactics and treatments to protect your bonsai cypress from pests and disease.
How to seed:
If you choose to grow and train your cypress bonsai from seeds, your best venture to start propagation is to collect the cypress seeds in the fall. The seeds are inside the cones. You want to pick the cones and place them in a safe and warm environment. Once you extract the seeds form them into layers or groups and place them in soil. Sow the plants during spring to promote propagation. The seeds should be planted in sand and peat and soaked previously in tepid water. The on the outside of the seed casing the plant can benefit from a slit. The plant will grow best in shaded climates at the start of its germination. The seeds will take a while to bud, however if you place the seeds in a container, sit them in direct sunbeams and avoid dryness, you may get the plant to grow faster.
How to grow cuttings:
Cuttings come from the July and August Chamaecyparis obtusa wood. The youthful wood must be kept in a cooler climate and root cuttings should be planted in a minute size pot the subsequent spring. Lateral shoots will provide you the best results in germination and propagation, which can prune the lateral shoots after the first year. Pruning after the first year will help you to shape an opaque bonsai.
To grow bonsai from layers, use strips of youthful Chamaecyparis groups in August, especially the low sections of the branches. Use a hook to hold the branches in the soil after planting. You can create a few shallow slashes to promote the growth of the roots. The tips of your cuttings should baton up from the soil. Leave the needles alone and wait until September to sever the branches, especially if the soil is moist or powdery.
How to graft:
Grafting techniques include the veneer. The process of grafting the false cypress happens in the summer months. Once you start, propagation and germination make sure that the roots have moisture. Tie the roots and slant the graft slightly so that the implant is turned in the direction of the light. Frame the graft and keep your plant in a semi-shaded environment. The soil should be moist at all times. In extremely hot weather, use sprays to protect your plant. Now, you are ready to learn care tactics to train your False Cypress Bonsai. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:18 PM |
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How to Train Bonsai |
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Bonsai plants are sometimes difficult to train or take care of, since many require detailed care. On the other hand, particular herbs, cuttings, or seeds are easy to train as bonsai. When you grow bonsai, you should start by allowing the plant to grow outdoors. (Depending on the species) Allowing the plant to grow outdoors will promote maturity around the trunk. You should allow growth outdoors for one season.
Bonsai plants grown from seeds include basil, rosemary, sweet marjoram, thymes, etc. Herbs are primary candidate that allow you to grow bonsai plants from seeds. The basil for example is an herb, which you can grow from seeds and train them as bonsai, which the basils are easiest to propagate. During warmer months, you should plant the seeds, since the basil will grow swiftly. You will need to learn trimming and shaping techniques to create your bonsai. You can purchase seeds nurseries, or anywhere where plant parts contain embryos. The seeds are botany bodies of plants produced by reproduction and contain embryos that supply rise to create new plants. See tuber, bulbs, spores, etc, as well as propagation parts of plants to learn more.
How to train cuttings:
Cuttings include the selected lavenders, rosemary, etc. The herbs are best grown as cuttings, yet you can choose many aromatic geraniums and grow them from cuttings. Most geraniums will propagate well if grown properly. Cuttings are parts of plants for propagation, which pieces of stems, leafs, roots, etc are taken for growing new plants.
According to experts, you should grow cuttings up to 3-inches long and no longer than 6-inches. The leaves should be taken off from each trunk at the lower area.
How to raise soft cuttings:
Cuttings differ depending on the herb, or bonsai you choose. You can propagate soft cuttings, such as the Geraniums by rooting them in soil-less mediums designed for Geraniums. Next, you would bathe the cuttings in hormones designed for roots. You will need to set the cuttings in a shaded area for at least 12 hours or less. The cuttings will wilt, which makes it easy for hard skin to form. You will need to add the cuttings in a plug tray. Ultimately, you can use garden pots around 3-inches. After shading, add moisture to the soil-less mediums followed by adding the cuttings. Once you finish sit the cuttings in your window around the south, east, or west section. The south side is best, since it can provide sufficient light.
You want to raise the humidity and keep it high. You can create a greenhouse with plastic. The plastic greenhouse will promote growth, which roots will start to develop in a few months.
If you have selected a variety of herbs to train as bonsai, you may want to fill a garden center, or nursery tray with coarse sand, perlite, and compounds used to grow plants. You can also use a wide, bulb pot with a shallow inside. Vermiculite and perlite should be added to one side, while the sand is added to the other side of your choice container. Vermiculite is compounds, such as the hydrous silicate of aluminum magnesium, iron, etc. Vermiculite alters mineral constituents of common rocks.
Once you have the tray setup submerge the cuttings into hormones designed to grow roots. Next, situate the cuttings into the flat sand, in rows. You will need to drain often. As well, you will need to water the cuttings as recommended.
Ultimately, you can purchase bonsai plants at supermarkets, nurseries, garden centers, etc. The plants will have instructions for your convenience, which you should follow consistently to grow healthy bonsai. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:17 PM |
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How to Train Bonsai Lespedeza |
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Lespedeza is the member of the Leguminosaceae family. The plants are grown in native regions, Asia, North America, Australia, etc. Lespedeza is the genus group that is politically, incorrectly defined. The plant should actually be known as the Cespedeza. Since spelling was never checked however, the Spaniard Crespedeza has not received its honor.
Lespedeza plants or forage is the kin to the pea family. The leaves grow three leaflets. Forage is produced from the leaves to manage erosion.
Lespedeza has counterparts, which include Lespedeza thunbergii. This native, China, Japan, etc, plant has shrubs that grow up to 6 ½ -feet across arched branches and light green eclipsed leaves. The leaves have silky undersides. The flowers are brilliantly shaded purpose, and are shaped like butterflies. The bicolor is native grown specie also grown in Japan, China, and throughout Manchuria. The tree grows up to 10-feet tall and develops amazing shapely branches. The branches grow dark green leaves at the crown and underneath the leaves are shades of blue-green. Red and purple flowers flourish at the tilts of the branches, which begin to flower in August and September.
Propagation starts with seeds, cuttings, or layering. Growing seeds is obsolete when growing thunbergii. If you sow the seeds in May, likely you will struggle to produce quality bonsais.
If you manage to sow the plants, you will need care instructions. To care for your plants place the plants in complete sunbeams. Temperatures desired by the lespedeza is warm environments. This plant will not survive frostbite, so keep away from frost. At the end of winter, you can prune your plant however and re-grow if the plants has been frostbite.
How to pot:
You will need to pot the plant in a medium depth container. Use a blue and glazed container for the best results.
How to clean:
Get rid of fading flowers. About one-third down, prune the roots. The plant grows slow, but needs room, so after pruning re-pot your plant into a larger pot.
How to re-pot:
In the spring each year, re-pot your plants. Before you send the plants to another pot, prune one-third of the roots.
Soil:
Lespedeza enjoys half leaf mould and loam mixtures. Permeable garden soil with lighting, dry climates, and sand is a favorite.
How to wire:
To train your bonsai you will need to wire in the spring. At the end of summer, remove the wiring. Create raffia from pines and wrap it around the wire before placing it on your plant.
How to water:
Moderate water is sufficient to care for Lespedeza. Dry grounds is a favorite of this specie. When the flower buds start to take its shape, you can increase water intake. Again, do not waterlog your plants.
How to spray:
The only known pests that target Lespedeza is the group of aphids. The plants are subject however to rhizoctonia, which is a fungal disease. You want to spray light mist over the foliage during the summer.
How to feed:
In spring and fall supply extra feeding, and weaken your feed in the fall and ONLY provide your plant with slow-moving macrobiotic fertilizers.
How to prune:
Sub-branches should be pruned when the branches are long. Cut back one-third of the branch and leave a couple of nodes. Once you get into the development stage near the ending of winter prune the plant. Cut the plant in fad-style, or very low. DO NOT allow your plant to get frostbitten.
Now that we have reached the end of the road, I would like to encourage you to check out Crab Apples or Malus Apples, which are easier to train as bonsai. |
| posted by neptunus @ 10:16 PM |
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Training Root over Rock and Multi Trunk Bonsai |
| Saturday, July 18, 2009 |
Bonsai when trained can produce delightful plants and trees. The trees include double-trunks, multi-trunks, single-trunks, groves, and so on. The Costa Rican mint bush is one of the bonsai grown as the double-trunk, which these bush must be planted deep along with a few shoots to produce the double-trunk effect. If you want to create a multi-trunk tree from herbs, you will need to allot quite a few shoots to grow near the base.
The root-over-rock when grown in fields is often grown as one of the multi-trunks. The energetic herbal plants should have structured roots. Once you trim the plant, you can shape it to your liking. After trimming you will need to clean grime from the trunk base and near the region where the chief roots divide. In addition, to raise root-over-rock bonsai you will need rocks suitable for the plant. Before planting the plant in your garden or field, make sure that you place the rocks beneath the trunk baseline. Wrap the roots about the rocks.
How to plant:
To plant the root-over-rock, once you completed the steps place the rocks at the soil surface. The root tips will grow properly as it begins to widen beneath the rocks. You can heap dirt about the rock edges if needed. The mounds of dirt will shield the roots until it begins to flourish deeply beneath the soil. Once the plant develops, you can transplant it to a suitable pot and begin your training.
Larger plants can produce instant bonsai shapes. If you choose, the larger plants make sure that you search for branch and shapes of the herb. If the plant is healthy and well structured you may find it difficult to train as bonsai. Still, you can create bonsai that are not based on traditions if you search for flow and equilibrium.
The older plants are ideal for shaping bonsai. If you have the opportunity, and live in an area where several nurseries, greenhouses, gardens, etc, are available to you, search for the older bonsai and study the features. In fact, you can use older plants, or inexplicable plants to produce the root-over-rock bonsai. Early trims of branches can promote new shoots along with strong plants, depending on the style.
When you shop for older plants investigate the interior structures by moving the foliage forward. You want to keep in mind that some plants require that you remove unwanted branches. When you investigate the older plants, make sure that the branches are balanced. If the branches are balanced, likely you can shape the plant to produce a desired bonsai.
Coupled with the branches you want to consider the earth line. You can consider the earth line by tapping the root sphere out of the container. If the plant was re-potted, you will know this by determining how deep the plant has grown in the container. If the trunk is beneath the soil level, you will have found a potential bonsai.
When you find the tree of choice, early trimming starts which ensures the growth and shaping of your bonsai. If the plant is bushy, you will need to invent a basic outline of a tree trunk along and leave a few branches. Four or six branches are ideal, which any remaining branches should be stripped. Trim the branches near the tips once you remove the extras. The shoots growing at the lower section around the trunk once developed should be trimmed, or removed.
Tip: Rosemary over one year old is ideal for training as the bonsai. The rosemary, once trained as the bonsai will present sturdy directional movement along with fascinating features. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:20 PM |
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Training Bonsai Trees from Seedlings How to choose seedlings |
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Grabbing the right seeds is the first step in training bonsai from seedlings. You can discover the type of seedlings at nurseries, online, or at garden centers, which are correct for training bonsai. In the meantime, I will do my best to provide you a few steps, tips, and tricks to get you started. When you purchase bonsai seedlings consider the plants that are easy to care for, otherwise if you are a beginner you can run into problems.
Seedlings include the Ulmus parvifolia groups, such as the Chinese elm. At what time you choose the Chinese elms be sure to select the seeds that will produce upright, straight traits. The seeds should also produce trunks that taper off into “feeder roots” at the lowest part near the base. Avoid the elongated taproots for now. Once you start growing the seedlings, and develop begins you will need to severely prune them as needed. The seedlings include the groves, informal seedlings, and the formal seedlings. The trees grow upward and are cared for in the same manner as the other, therefore combining the seedlings will make it easy for you to grow a selection of bonsai.
How to consider height
When you choose seedlings also consider height. To consider height, you must first define the type of plant you want to grow. For instance, if you grow the hypothetical specimens you want a range between 40-cm to 47-cm, which is anywhere between 15 to 18-inches tall.
The hypothetical breeds are often taller than the desired height of bonsai. You will need to cut back tops of the tree, to reduce the trunk height. You can improve height by tapering off the trunk and then select a new top branch as a leader. Cut a sharp slant behind the branch. Next, wire the branch so that it stands upright. Once you finish the tree should be around 31-cm or 12-inches tall. Once the tops renew make sure that the tree is growing in an upright position.
You may need to correct the position. If you cut the tops at a slant, you may need to use wire to train the tree, growing in an upright position. Take care not to wire the tree too tight. In addition, as the tree grows make sure that you check the wires and loosen them as needed.
The roots are important. Once seedlings take off, the roots will start to show. The large chief root or taproot is the bulky area that extends down below the stems and sometimes has a fine lateral root. This root should be cut off completely, particularly if you purchased elm seedlings. Make sure to read the instructions provided to you before cutting the elms. Once you cut the taproot position gently, the side feeder (Phloem) roots. Position the roots so that they form a helm-shape. The roots should not cross or appear to grow in overturn direction of the other root. The elm roots should be arranged so that it forms a large sided root, especially during the first growing season. You want to make sure the soil is firm also and that the roots spread about the soil.
Do not pack or fill the soil so that it forms what gardeners call “waterproof hardpans.”
To hold the tree in place, you can add twigs, covering soil, etc. The chief base soil should not be sandier than the added soil however. The additives will assist in growing a healthier tree with outward roots and attractive side root shapes. Once you reach this stage, you may want to consider transporting. Be careful since some bonsai will suffer transport shock. You can grow the plants in beds or pots. Growing the plants in beds is ideal, since you will not need to water the plants as often, as well the trunk will thicken as it grows rapidly. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:20 PM |
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Training Bonsai from the Crataegus Ornamental Thorns How to train Crataegus Ornamental Thorns bonsai |
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The family of Rosaceae brought attention to the kinfolk Crataegus Ornamental Thorns. The plants are grown throughout native regions, North America, western Europe, Asia, etc. Rarely will you find a specimen taller than 23-feet. The tree produces edible fruits. The fruits will bloom in spring and sprout up orange, red, yellow, or even black fruits. During the summer and spring, sometimes the Crataegus Ornamental Thorns group will sprout flowers. The flowers are pretty pink, white, and/or red. The trees has thorns. The leaves are serrated, deciduous, and have round projecting parts, or lobes.
Crataegus cuneata is a native or Japan species, which shrubs produce serrated leaves that edge around flowers, which are pink, white, etc. The fruits are yellow or red. The flowers begin its bloom in the lovely month of spring. Propagation starts with seeds, spring layering, or grafting.
How to seed:
Crataegus Ornamental Thorns produce seeds inside the fruit. Before the fruit ripens, you can pick the fruit and allow them to rot. You can place them in the middle of layered sand. Sow in the fall, which starts germination in May. The fruit may not grow for a few years once you sow your seeds.
How to care for Crataegus Ornamental Thorns:
During summer, provide the Crataegus Ornamental Thorns with semi-shade. Otherwise, the plants enjoy light.
Hawthorn is a member of the Crataegus Ornamental Thorns. This plant does not enjoy intense heated environments. The plant can stand cooler weather. A sister to the Hawthorn is the shrubs known as the hedgerow. The species can tolerate wind.
How to pot:
Hawthorns are thorny trees or shrubs. The plants are kin to the rose family and grows clusters of pink/white flowers, as well as reddish fruits. The Haw Genus Crataegus desires balance. If the fruits are weighing down its branches, remove some of the fruits. The soil should remain clean at all times, and any debris or dead wood should be removed as well.
How to re-pot:
Re-potting is based on growth. The plants grow at average paces, which each year you can re-pot the plant. Re-pot should occur in spring, or fall. Before you re-pot however, take 1/3 of the roots from the tree.
Choosing soil:
This plant is friendly to variety soils, yet you should mix 1/3 loam, course sand, and leaf mould. DO not use soil with extreme clay ingredients, soggy soil, calcareous soil, or light soil to sow or re-pot your plants.
How to prune:
Pinch back and then out the tops of your new shoots. The best time to pinch these shoots is when the new growth on leaves begin to solidify. Sub-branches should be pruned June and in July. You want shorter branches. In September, you want to reverse the role and allow the branches length.
You can prune the main branches at the bloom of flowers, or as the fruits take its shape.
How to wire:
Wiring is essential for shaping bonsai. In spring and fall, you want to use straw-colored ribbons, which you can obtain from the leaves on raffia palms. The fiber makes a great wrap, which you will need to twist around the wire to protect your plant. Start wiring when hardening shoots appear.
How to water:
Plenty of water will keep your Crataegus Ornamental Thorns happy. When the plant starts to flower however, reduce water intake.
How to spray:
The foliage only should be well sprayed during dry seasons, or warm conditions.
How to feed:
Spring and fall, after the spurt of growth ends you want to reduce feeding. Use liquid feeding in fall and add a bit of phosphate and potash when the fruits start to develop. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:19 PM |
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Training Bonsai from Semi-Hardy Perennials How to train semi-hardy perennials |
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The perennials include the semi-hardy group. The group of perennials can tolerate unfavorable weather conditions, such as vague freezing and frost. Unlike the resilient herbs however, the semi-hardy will not survive below freezing weather. If you grow the plants indoors however, the plants will withstand warmer conditions. If you raise the plants outdoors or indoors make sure the environmental weather does not drop five, or below 25 degrees. One of the semi-hardy groups grown as bonsai is the santolinas. The semi-hardy will grow swiftly. The plant has tolerated levels contrasting other perennials, in that it will survive conditions that other plants will not. The plant also has a unique aromatic scent. You can purchase germanders and the group of winter savory plants to compliment your santolinas. The green santolina is another member of the semi-hardy perennials.
Santolina has a couple of species. The species include gray santolina, a member of Santolina Chamaecyparissus, and the lavender cotton. The gray santolina makes up a soft stunning foliage and contracted wooly group of bordered leaves.
Green santolina or the Santolina Virens grow brilliant, shimmering leaves green in color and the leaves thin down the bonsai shaping the form of thread. This selection will endure weathers contrasting the santolina gray, cotton, etc, yet the needs of environmental conditions are alike.
How to grow:
The plants require brilliant light and prefer to sit at the south window. The plants will survive east lights, yet to prevent damage, keep the plants at the south. To keep form of this bonsai, continue trimming and cutting. During the summer, supply your plants with adequate water. Purchase a water temp regulator to detect when to water your plant. You can place the plant in brilliant light, in a cool environment for the best growth. To propagate, cut the roots often. The plant is ideal for beginners, since it is one of the easier to grow semi-perennial.
Winter savory is the body of Satureja Montana and grows elegant evergreens with shimmering effects. The green leaves grow from a woody trunk. The trunk has a reddish tint along with a green texture. Training the semi-hardy savory will land you an 8-inch bonsai, or at most a 6-inch bonsai. During the winter, months keep the plant in a cool, semi-inactive environment. You can keep the plant indoors next to a cool window during winter months, or allow the plant to rest outdoors during the fall. DO not allow the plant to sit in freezing weather conditions.
Unlike the annual plants, savory requires less water. The plant grows slower also. You can propagate the plant by cutting the branches and leaves as required. As well, grow the plant from seeds to achieve easy propagating. The lifespan is around two-three years. Beginners want to learn more about raising this plant, since it is a member of the hardier to grow bonsai, yet the tree produces a stunning form.
Teucrium chamaedrys and the group of germander Teucrium lucidum make a great species for growing bonsai. The trees stand upright when developed. The germanders are often used for its edged hedges, which are small. The plant has nothing to do with cooking, such as spice or season growth and has minimal aromatic scents. The germander however was utilized in ancient days, which formed a medicinal complimentary. During the winter, the plant requires the same desired temperatures as the winter savory. However, the germanders will survive less light than that of the winter savory. To maintain the germander add direct light in low shades, or low lighting. Growing the plant with seeding makes it easiest to propagate. If you frequently cut the plant, it will develop flowers at faster rates. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:19 PM |
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Protecting the Taxus Yew Bonsai How to protect the Taxus Yew |
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The common pests that attack the Taxus Yew is the “galls on buds,” weevils, tortrix, and the scale insects. Galls on buds can cause damage to your plant, which you can treat with insecticide to avoid such damage. The galls will turn your buds a brownish color and swell the buds until they start to fall from the plant. Galls are created from Woolly Aphids. The aphids will attack the tree, especially about the woody sections beneath and at the top of the tree. The galls are formed from piercing attacks, which can also cause fungus. The problem will cause your plant to slow growth. To treat the plant you will need to get rid of the galls. Use copper-based insecticides to disinfect the wounds. During colder months, use tar oil with caution and spray the tree. You can spray the tree again with tar oil, and during the opening stage spray the tree with oleo-parathion. Insecticides should be sued when the tree starts to develop leaves.
Weevils are treatable. In May and July, you will need to treat the plant with lindane-based insecticides. The weevils will gnaw at the needles, bark, and shoots until they wither away and die. The tree will start to change color, usually yellow. Once the tree changes color, it will shrivel away and wilt until it dies.
How to treat scale insects:
The scale insects include the hard and soft shells. To treat the problem you will need to consider the bugs. The hard-shelled bugs are inactive species. The bugs often take possession of the fruit, leaves, and branches. You may spot the bugs by noting their dark brown or grayish brown shells. The bugs are small measuring around one-eight inch.
The scale insects with soft shells will deposit waxy collections of shells, which appear around the branches, leaves, and trunk. Inside the shell is the soft shell scale insect, which secretes a sweet, sticky substance. (Honeydew) You want to eliminate this collection before it gets started, since honeydew will damage the blade of your leaves and breed “black fungus.” The fungus is known as “sooty mould.” If the tree is not treated, it will gradually die. You will notice discomposing signs when the needles start to change to yellow and fall from the tree. The branch will die, and the trunk will disfigure itself from its natural or shaped form.
How to treat bonsai:
To eliminate problems arising from the scale insects, use a sponged dipped in alcohol and water. Clean the leaves and stems. If the branches are infested, cut them and destroy the parts.
During the winter, months you can rely on the birds to feast on the insects, yet in the spring you will need to use crude oils, such as the petroleum based to obliterate the scale insect. You can combine the oils with organophosphate insecticide to eliminate the problem. If the tree is fragile, you want to avoid over treating your plant. You can cause severe damage, or even fatality. Like cockroaches, the scale bugs are hard to eliminate. In view of the fact, you want to continue treatment as needed.
If you have purchased your seeds, cuttings, or nurseries, likely you received directions for caring for your plant. Read the instructions and follow them as recommended. When treating plants with insecticides or related chemicals make sure you switch off now and again so that the pests do not become immune to the chemicals. Once the pests are immune, they will survive spray. Learn more about plant spray to choose Taxus Yew treatments. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:18 PM |
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Protecting the Bonsai from Disease How to protect bonsai from disease |
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Plants are not obsolete from disease. Trees can rot severe damage from mildew, rust, etc. When you consider disease, you want to think of chalky mildew, rotting roots or honey fungus, rotting leaves or roots, leaf spots, rust, and verticilliosis.
Spots affect the leaves of trees. The spots start out white and change to brown, or gray with black hollow rings, which develop into lesions. The spots form as 3-sided plane polygons, or triangles. The foliage is also affected, which it can wither. Once the foliage withers granules will start to appear in the center of the foliage.
How to treat:
If you notice symptoms, such as the ones named you will need to get rid of any leaves that show disease and obliterate them. Once you destroy, the leaves use copper-based chemicals that kill fungi, such as fungicides. DO NOT water or mist the plants in direct sunbeams. Again, DO NOT add, too much moisture to the foliage.
To rid your plant of chalky mildew you can treat the bonsai with synthetic or mineral fungicides. You will need to cut the branches, which are infested. Destroy any cuttings, or infested branches immediately. Use your sprays. Use sulphur in the spring to prevent mildew. Mildew is noted for its whitish, chalky mycelium. Mildew’s main section of fungus has a loose networking structure of fragile hyphae or filaments that shape the fungus and consists of feeding, which replicates hyphae. Mildew will attack stems, buds, leaves, etc. Mildew will grow thick around the plant, which distorts the leaf blades. The leaves and blades will finally shrivel and finally the tree will wilt away.
Tip: to slow mildew take-away its desired climate, such as warm and dry conditions.
Mildew is yeast in short, and grows rapidly. Treating the problem straight away is the key to growing healthy bonsai.
Bonsai are subject to rotting roots. When honey fungus develops the main parts of fungus will send a chain of loose networks along its fragile hyphae and form bodies of fungus. The fungus feeds and replicates hyphae, which starts the cycle of serious conditions. Fungus will attack sickly trees, especially those that have been pierced by insects or damaged during cutting. If you notice the roots turning brown or notice rhizomorphs (Black threads of fungus parts moving from host to host), you will need to treat your tree. You will notice the rhizomorphs or brown spots beneath the bark. If the shoots are restricted of growth, it is an indication that your plant needs help. If the roots are rotting, you will notice dropping leaves and/or needles as well. The tree will wither; as well, the branches will decompose.
To treat and protect your bonsai, once you notice an indications of rotting spray your tree with fungicide. The disease honey fungus, or root rotting is deadly, yet you can try to save your tree by spraying it with the fungicide.
Verticilliosis affects plants, since it is a disease that starts from spore-producing organisms. The fungus grows a single cell or a multi-cellular life form lacking chlorophyll and replicates via spores, which it lives by absorbing nutrients from macrobiotic matters. As you can see, the bonsai is robbed of its photosynthesis process, which is minimized, and finally eliminated. To treat the problem you will need to avoid using excessive “nitrogenous fertilizers. The damaged sections of your tree requires careful consideration, as well you will need to get rid of any weeds. Dead leaves should also be removed and destroyed. Use a mineral-based fungicide to spray the soil, neck, and trunk of your bonsai. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:18 PM |
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Protecting the Bonsai How to protect your bonsai |
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Life is full of bugs, disease, unpredictable weather, uncaring humans, etc. The elements of life lead us to take caution in everything we do, including protecting the bonsai. Bonsais’ are not obsolete from disease, pests, uncaring humans, or unpredictable weather; therefore, you will need to learn how to protect your plants, as well as spot potential hazards. In previous articles, I have discussed brief details on the subject, protecting your bonsai from red spider mites, tetranychus, glasshouse mites, caterpillars, etc. In this article, I feel the need to continue the topic while discussing goat moth, leopard moth, small ermine moths, mealy bugs, scale insects, and so on. While I may not finish the entire group of pests and disease, I will attempt to help you protect your bonsais’ by providing you as much detail as possible on many species.
How to protect your bonsai from the goat and leopard moths: (Red and/or Yellow caterpillars)
Bugs of the night are known as the nocturnal. The goat and leopard moths will feast on tree bark, trunks, and branches, and will continue feasting until someone steps in with cutters, wire, cotton wool, and carbon disulphide. The moths will feast on trunks, bark, branches, etc puncturing holes and using the holes as a passageway to channel their way up the parts. At the passageway particles of wood start to develop, i.e. sawdust.
To treat your bonsai use carbon disulphide. Carbon disulphide is non-metallic chemical elements that exist in two main forms, such as graphite and diamonds. The chemicals have ability to form huge numbers of macrobiotic compounds that allow living organisms to survive. First, you will need to cut and destroy the parasite, or infested sections. At the passageway, pull some wire through the holes preferably use iron wire. Use the cotton wool along with the wire, wrapping the wire about the cotton wool. The cotton wool should be emerged in the non-metallic chemical elements, i.e. the carbon disulphide.
The minute size ermine moths leave trails of webs around the foliage. The silky threads of web often start at the cleavage of leaves. Ermines leave sheaths, or egg covering, which is the cocoon, is marked on the tree. You will spot ermines, which is a type of caterpillar beneath the leaves. The leaves will fall off the bonsai if treatment is not provided. Treatment should include cutting, “organophosphate contact insecticides,” etc. Organophosphate is a macrobiotic compound that contains phosphate groups.
Mealy-bugs can eventually kill your bonsai if you do not treat the problem. The mealy-bugs resemble a blob of unprocessed white cotton. The bugs will expel waste from their bodies, such as honeydew. The sweet, sticky substance can cause damage, since insects deposit the honeydew on leaves of plants, as well as other bugs, spinning-off the juices the bugs suck from plants. The honeydew breeds grimy mildew. Mildew will kill the plant, since it drops the photosynthesis process. In short, the active bugs will turn your leaves yellow and cause them to fall from the plant. Use organophosphate to eliminate the problem.
Tetranychus during the early parts of the 80s nearly destroyed millions of acres of Illinois soybeans. In the last parts of the 80s, the infestation increased to several million more infestations. The soybeans were sprayed with insecticides, yet had it not been treated, the soybeans would have died. Tetranychus red spiders are kin to the family of arachnid. The spiders are often spotted in temperate districts, as well as in greenhouses. Tetranychus red will weave fine webs beneath plant leaves while targeting the host. Tomatoes are the favorite plant that these spiders will target, which the spiders will lay eggs. The spider will drain plant cells, sucking the juice and potentially causing viruses to swell. The red Tetranychus mites are only one unit of length, which equals at one thousandth of a single meter. As you see the spider is small, yet this critter can cause major harm to your bonsai.
To treat the problem sprays the foliage generously, especially near the base. Acaricides should be sprayed immediately when symptoms come into view. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:17 PM |
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Propagation and the Japanese White Pine Bonsai How to propagation the Japanese White Pine |
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The Japanese White Pine bonsai is a very attractive plant. The plant requires care however to maintain its growth and to keep the plant in shape. The White Pine is the body of Pinus Parviflora, Pinus Pentaphylla. White pine comes from North America and grows rapidly once developed. The pine tree is a native or eastern grown North America bush with soft durable wood. White pine includes the group of Pinus Strobus also. The pine may grow five-needle collections about the wood.
To propagate or grow a bonsai tree, first you must consider the plant. Are you growing the tree from seedlings? Pine trees grow ripe cones, which start developing after a couple years of growth. At this time, you can gather the cones and place them in a warm, dry environment. The best time to gather the cones is around September or in October. Once the cones start to open you, want to gather the seeds from the pine and saturate them in water.
If you notice, sinking seeds you can gather these seeds and start propagation. Before you plant, the seeds in the spring make sure that you use safe chemicals to kill any fungi. The plants should be inserted in flat covered or sheet like thick layers of sand. If you grow the plants during the fall, make sure you re-pot the plants in the spring since shoots are fragile once it starts growing from the seed.
The plants can also be layered. If you choose, the basic layering methods select the flexible branches on the low scale and remove the needles. You want to bury these needles and move to cut slit in the outer layer of the tree. (Bark) Once you bury the rough, outer covering (Bark) make sure that the soil is moist. Maintain moisture. Once the shoots begin to develop, cut through the layers, and continue caring for your plant as recommended.
You have the option of air layering also. You perform similar actions in air layering as you would perform in basic layering.
How to air layer the Japanese White Pine
Remove the covering of the branch leaves you want to layer. Again, you want to slit a spot and hold the incision open and add sphagnum moss. The layer should be covered with moist moss and closed with plastic or tubes at each end. You can re-pot the plant as it starts to layer in the spring. Cut through the layer at this time also.
Growing cuttings and training them, as bonsai requires that you extract cuttings from young breeds. The older breeds are harder to train as bonsai. You want the shorter branches, which are at least two years old. Before you plant, the cuttings are sure to brush on root-hormones.
How to care for the Japanese White Pine:
Caring for the White Pine requires consideration of sunlight, temperature, ventilation, and potting. The Japanese White Pine demands direct sunlight, unless you are growing cultivars or dwarfs. In this case, during summer months supply the pines with shading.
White Pines do not mind windy weathers. However, the plants prefer cool places and cannot stand intense heat or cold weather. If you are growing the fine, needled White Pines take care to keep them out of dry winds.
How to pot the Japanese White Pines:
You will need a deep pot. The cobalt blue pots are often used to grow the White Pines, since if the pot is not deep enough it could cause the tree to tip. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:17 PM |
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Promoting Wildlife with Bonsai How to raise bonsai in wildlife |
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Wildlife is a macrobiotic gift that we must appreciate. When nature lovers grow bonsai, plants, trees, shrubs, vegetation, etc, they are promoting wildlife. Of course, you do not want to grow bonsai plants to provide foodstuff for pests and animals, yet particular animals can protect your plants from pests. For instance if you grow Taxus Yew bonsai, ladybirds could protect your garden by keeping away pests. The aromatic scents will attract the birds, which the creatures will feast on the bugs, rather than your plant. On the other hand, if the birds are not attracted to your bonsai, then the bugs will feast on your plants, rather than other species.
Wildlife growth includes adding birdbaths to your garden and yard. You can also promote wildlife and bonsai specimen growth by adding ponds, streams, natural springs, shallow dishes, etc. You want to grow specimens that are not poisonous to nature’s habitat. You can build an attractive birdhouse, or bath from metal poles. Attach the poles and continue watching over the usage of the habitat. You can grow host plants to provide nourishment for the caterpillars and butterflies, by planting dense plants to invent safe nesting areas for wildlife. The extra plants should not be grown as bonsai. The plants rather are attractions that will lead the harmful pests away from your bonsai, since these creatures will have their own feasting ground. If the pests are attracted to your bonsai however, you will need to treat the plants so that it does not loose its life.
Seeds, cuttings, layers, and grafting is often used to train bonsai. The outdoor plants include the cedar or Cedrus, which are the bonsai conifers. Conifers are usually cone-bearing trees that grow thin needles and/or leaves. The cones produced will grow from evergreen pines, junipers, firs, larches, yews, and spruces. The seeds are often taking from the cones, while the cuttings may come from parts of a specimen. Layers often create bonsai from its branches.
The junipers are evergreen plants that bear cones that bore a resemblance to berries. The shrubs or trees have minute size cones, which are purplish in tone and are grown to yield oils, which are used to flavor liquor, such as gin. Juniperus (Junipers) are grown from seeds, cuttings, layers, grafts, etc.
Firs are evergreens with shapely needle leaves, or sole, flat needle-shaped leaves, which the female cones stand erect. The firs are members of the Abies, including the Douglas fir. The Douglas fir is one of the taller conifers, or exceedingly tall pine, which grows in Northern America and usually, has distinct jagged bark. The cones are shaggy-looking. Douglas is grown for its timber, and is often made into a Christmas tree. Its Latin name is Pseudotsuga menziesil, and is sometimes called Douglas spruce, Oregon pine, etc. The wood is sturdy and durable.
Evergreen pines have a nice aromatic scent, which will attract wildlife. You should invent a devise strategy, such as growing favorite plants around the bonsai, which the pests can feast on.
Cedar is the family of Pinaceae. Cedar is grown from seedlings, graft, cuttings, layers, etc, and is trained as bonsai. The tree is ideal for wildlife growth, since it extends up to 165- feet tall when matured. The tree grows evergreen needles, which the shorter section of the branches grows bunched needles. The cones are shaped like eggs, and are smooth to the touch. The thin scales are wide. The scales will fit snugly over each other. In the winter months, the cedar will produce seedlings. At this time, you want to extract the seeds. First, however, you must soak the cones in water for two days and extract the seeds, mixing them with clay and peat before planting. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:17 PM |
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Perennial Bonsai Selections How to care for bonsai |
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Bonsai includes pineapple sage, lion’s ear, curry, and the Costa Rican mint bush. Curry, lion’s ear, pineapple sage, and the Costa are herbs that are trained as bonsai. The pineapple has juicy yellowish fruits that grow from its vines. The fruit is sometimes thick and lumpy with yellow-brown skin. The tuft has rough pointed leaves near the top. Pineapple is tropical plants that have tall thick stems as well. The rough sword-shaped leaves have dense collections of minute size flowers. Pineapple sage is known as the Salvia elegans. The bonsai grows large healthy plants. The miniature bonsai trees grow up to 3-feet tall. The plant however grows huge before it starts to produce wood. If you grow the pineapple sage outdoors, the tree will grow up to 5-feet tall, once it has been trimmed.
Pineapple sage bonsai desires sunny weather. The warmth helps the plant to grow healthy. Do not leave the pineapple bonsai outdoors in frosty weather. During the season, as the days grow short the pineapple sage will begin bloom. As the plant matures, it grows impressive flowers, providing you shape the bonsai at an early stage. The flowers are brilliant red. During midwinter and throughout fall the flowers are shaped like tubes.
The bonsai has scented foliage. You can grow the plant to produce flavoring, which will enhance the taste of herbal teas. Trim the plant as recommended. The best bonsai trees to grow with pineapple sage are the sweet marjoram and thymes.
How to care for lion ear bonsai:
Lion’s ear or leonotis Leonuris grows healthy shrubs. The foliage grows off the shrubs, which are light green. The flowers are orange. Lion’s ear is one of the favorite-trained bonsai. When the plant is grown outdoors, it grows up to 6-feet tall. The lion’s ear when grown inside should be trimmed regularly. Lion’s ear has large leaves and the trunk will thicken rapidly. You will need a huge pot, since the roots also grow swiftly and large.
How to care for Costa Rican mint bush:
The mint bush is often cultivated and used for flavoring. The plants have aromatic leaves. The bonsai is of the northern temperate and sometimes produce peppermint, spearmint, etc. Costa Rican mint bush is also the Satureja Viminea. The plants grow swiftly and start to develop woody traits during before maturity. At the main supporting element near the trunk, Costa bonsai will grow develops suckers starting at the root. You want to remove the suckers. At what time the Costa Rican mint bush is bruised, it has a strong mint fragrance. The plant will grow attractive lime leaves, making the bonsai one of the most attractive trees. Caribbean regions often grow the Costa Rican mint bush and use it as a flavor to set of meats.
Curry plants or Helichrysum angustifolium is often cultivated to produce spices. The spices are added to meat, vegetables, fish, etc. The spices are also formed as seasons, sauce, paste, powder, etc. Curry plants trained as bonsai grow minute size shrubs. The foliage is vividly silver. Curry plants have a strong aroma, which grow flowers in planting season that resemble buttons. The metallic leaves are often small. NOTE: The curry plants grown, as bonsai are not spice material, therefore do not attempt to use the plant as a season, or spice.
How to care for Curry plants
Curry plants will produce suckers that are strong and thrown at the branches and trunk. You want to remove the suckers when it starts to develop at the tips of the branches. The flowers and trimmings are available to use as arrangements to maintain adequate dryness. |
| posted by neptunus @ 6:16 PM |
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Privacy Policy |
| Wednesday, July 1, 2009 |
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| posted by neptunus @ 1:46 AM |
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